The earliest known rock cut caves are excavated near Gaya in Bihar. Four in Barabar and three in Nagarjuni hills. Some of these caves were donated by Emperor Ashoka (272-232 BC) to the ascetics of Ajvika sect.
In Maharashtra, the excavation of caves started from second century BC. The three phases of cave excavation can be broadly classified as Buddhist from 200 BC to 600 AD; Hindu from 600 AD to 1000 AD; and Jain from 800 AD to 1200 AD.
Out of the 1500 rock cut caves in India, nearly 1000 are Buddhist; 300 are Hindu; and 200 are Jain.
Chaitya and Vihara
Buddhist caves are of two types: Chaitya and Vihara. Chaitya contains a shrine. Usually a Stupa will be present in a Chaitya. There is one prayer hall. At the back side of the hall, one Stupa is carved into the stone. There are two rows of columns on both sides till the entrance. This divides a Chaitya into three sections. Two narrow passage on each side and a central hall. The roof of a Chaitya is circular. Stone or wooden beams will be supported on the roof. The main hall has an entrance.
Vihara used to house the monks. There are usually several isolated rooms on the three sides opening into a common area. Each room used to house one monk. There is a provision for one bed for a monk and some space for his belongings.
Hinayana and Mahayana
In Buddhism, there are two sects: Hinayana and Mahayana. Buddha preached non existance of God. He forbade worship of God in any form. Soon after the death of Buddha, his disciples felt the need to worhip him in some form or the other. Hence they started worshipping him in some indirect form. e.g. Bodhi tree, foot imprint, tooth, Dhamma Chakra, etc. In the later stage, some of the disciples felt the need to worship him directly in the form of an idol. This bifurcated the religion. The earlier sect worshipping Buddha indirectly were labelled as Hinayans and the later sect worshipping Buddha directly were labelled as Mahayans.
In Maharashtra, the caves of Bhaje, Karla, Bedse, Kondhane, Junnar (Shivaneri), Mahad, Karad, Wai, Kanheri are all Hinayan caves.
Stupa
Stupa means the samadhi of a revered person. In the ancient times, after the cremation of a person, a small mound of soil or stones used to be erected on the place. This custom gave rise to the specific shape of stupa. Jains erected stupas. Later Buddhists started erecting stupas. In the earlier times, the main purpose of erecting a stupa was to remeber the message of Buddha. Some relic of Buddha or his revered disciple used to be at the base of the stupa. A circular or an eliptical base used to be constructed on the relic. This is called Medhi or Dand. A semi circular dome is constructed on the Medhi/Dand. This is called Anda. The top of Anda has one square Mandap. This is called Harmika. There are one or three umbrellas on top of Harmika. They are called Chatravali or Triratna. A pathway used to be constructed to circumambulation. The pathway is called Vedika. Four pathways are erected on all four sides to enter the Vedika. These pathways are called Toranas.
Later a lot of stupas were needed as the Buddhism expanded. At that time, a relic was not needed to erect a stupa. All the stupas in caves fall under this category.
Location and getting there
Bhaje and Karle are very accessable from Pune and Mumbai. Bedse caves are remote and getting there can be challenging.
On Mumbai Pune railway or old highway, there is a station called Malawali next to Lonavala. Karle caves are nearly 5 kilometers from this station on the north side. Bhaje caves are nearly 2 kilometers from this station on the Southern side.
One can get down on Malavali railway station by a local train between Pune and Lonavala. From there, one can take and auto rickshaw to visit both Karle and Bhaje. Alternatively, one can take their own transport and on Old Mumbai Pune highway, reach Karle. The Karle caves are nearly 2 kilometers from the highway and 4-5 kilometers from the Malavali railway station. Bhaje caves are nearly 2 kilometers from the Malavali railway station and 4-5 kilometers from the highway.
Going to Bedse is very difficult. Having your own transport is advisable to visit this cave. One has to turn left from Kamshet of one is coming from Pune towards Lonavala. After travelling for nearly 15 kilometers on the narrow roads, one can reach Bedsa village. We need to ask directions frequently to make sure that we are heading in the right direction. The last couple of kilometers of road does not exist!
Karle Caves
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Karla cave complex |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Karla Cave Complex |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Entrance of Karla Chaitya |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Entrance of Karla Chaitya |
Karle caves can be considered as the largest and the best of the Hinayan cave complexes. It contains one Chaitya. There were two large lion pillars in the entrance. Only of of them exists today. This pillar has four lions. There are some holes near the entrance. Probably some wooden structure must have existed near the entrance. In this section there are several sculptures carved out of the stone. Elephants, Buddha, couples. The couples depicted have worn distinct headgear. Their knees are slightly bent. There are two entrances on both sides of the main entrance. Probably each disciple would wash his feet in these entrance before entering the prayer hall.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Stone pillar with four lions |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Beautiful carvings at the entrance |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
The prayer hall has wooden roof. It contains 31 teak wood beams. The hall is 124 feet long and 46.5 feet wide. It has 30 pillars on both sides. Each pillar has square base, then semi spherical section, then octagonal pillar, then one lotus flower, and finally couples sitting on elephants or horses.
At the back of the hall, Chaitya is carved. The Chatrawali on the Harmika is still intact.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Harmika |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Carvings on the pillar inside Chaitya |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Carvings on the pillar inside Chaitya |
There are several Viharas. Some of them are two stories.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Viharas |
Ekveera temple is constructed right in the entrance. A lot of pilgrims visit the temple. Most of them oblivious to the fact that the caves are more ancient.
After exploring every corner of the cave complex, we proceeded to the Bhaje caves.
Bhaje Caves
Bhaje caves are the first caves excavated in Maharashtra probably in second century BCE. They are more ancient than any other cave. There are two Chaityas, 13 Viharas, and two Matapas (dining areas) in this complex.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Bhaje cave complex |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Chaitya of Bhaje caves |
Cave number 12 was the main Chaitya. It had wooden facade which does not exist anymore. There are places for this wooden structure to be fixed in the cave. The Chaitya hall is 8.17 meters wide and 18 meters long. There are 27 simple octagonal pillars in the Chaitya. Their height is 5.9 meters. The pillars are one meter from the wall. The pillars are tilted 13 centimeters inside. Buddhist symbols are carved on these pillars. Chatravali is destroyed. Wood was used in abundance in this cave. Some of it was destroyed in due course of time.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Chaitravali is destroyed in due course of time |
A little further, there are 14 stupas carved side by side in a single cave. They were in the memory of Acharyas. Their names are carved on these stupas.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Fourteen stupas |
A little ahead, cave number 20 is very peculiar due to its carvings. The vihara is closed as the Archiological department has installed one iron grill and locked the entrance to this place. There are five carvings depicting the complete human figures. There are differences of opinion about whose figures are depicted here.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
Some of the Viharas are two storied. The Vihara on the extreme end remained unfinished.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 |
Bedse Caves
Bedse caves are ignored. Not many people visit the place due to its inaccessibility. That can be one of the reasons on why these caves are better preserved. The nature in this area is better preserved.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Entrance of Bedsa caves |
There are several octagonal columns on both sides of the Chaitya hall. The columns are simple, just like Bhaje caves. There are several Buddhist symbols carved on the pillars. There is no wooden roof in these caves. There are two pillars outside the entrance. Each pillar has men sitting on different animals. e.g. horse, bull, elephant. There are two smaller Stupas outside the Chaitya hall. These are not covered. Probably because of of wear and tear. There is one Vihara.
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Chaitya of Bedsa caves |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Carvings on the stone pillars inside Chaitya |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Stone pillar at the entrance of Chaitya |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Smaller stupa outside Chaitya |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Vihara in Bedsa caves |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Vihara complex of Bedsa caves |
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| From Trips - Karle, Bhaje, Bedse Caves Nov 09 Vihara complex of Bedsa caves |
Thus we completed visiting three caves. The feeling we were taking from this trip was of gratitude. Our ancestors have left such a rich heritage for us. We need to preserve it and appreciate it.
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